West Portugal
Portugal may be one of Western Europe’s smaller countries, but it’s big in terms of options. And, given its exposure to North Atlantic winter storms, the waves themselves get big; the biggest in the world, in fact. But what really separates Portugal from other surfing destinations in Europe is its variety of waves. You can find slabs, beachbreaks, pointbreaks, reefbreaks and XXL waves — sometimes all on the same swell.
The Waves
Baleal
To view live HD surf cams in Portugal near this spot, CLICK HERE. A couple of miles north of Peniche is the sandy little island village of Baleal. It's not really much of a town, but it's been a big destination for traveling surfers for more than 20 years -- especially when the reefs around Ericiera are blown out with north or south winds. Baleal is an island, so there's almost always a protected beach. It's no surprise that most of the learn-to-surf camps in Portugal are located here. With the mellow (though localized) left reefbreak of Lagide just north of town, followed by miles of open beachbreak, you can have a pretty high surfer population density without pissing too many people off. There's even a protected bay south of town with mediocre beachbreak that's sheltered from north winds (and huge swells). You won't find perfection in Baleal -- there's no hidden Coxos, and Supertubes is a couple miles south -- but if you keep one eye out on the shifting sandbanks and the other on the flagpoles, you might be able to score some damn fine beachbreaks with mellow crowds. Plus, the learn-to-surf camps bring in lovely Northern Europeans superkeen on surfing, so if you're in the mood to give a couple lessons . . .
Ribeira de Ilhas
To view the Ribeira de Ilhas live HD surf cam, CLICK HERE. Often compared to Bells Beach, Riberia de Ilhas is one of Ericiera's most consistent and varied high-performance waves. Situated inside a large bay between the Reef and Coxos, Riberia is made up of a series of flat rock shelves that jut out into the middle of the bay and pick up most any swell the Atlantic has to offer. The fact that it's slightly protected by the cliffs on either side means it stays relatively glassy when other spots are blown out, though it receives slightly less swell than places like Coxos. Riberia has been home to more contests than any other beach in Portugal, and for good reason. When it's small, swells come in and peak up in different parts of the reef, allowing for a broad takeoff zone. As it gets bigger, the rights reel down in a manner that's been called a cross between Bells and third point Malibu. Once it's 6 foot, you could theoretically hit the lip more than a dozen times all the way to shore. It just keeps magically setting up in front of you and is especially fun going backside. Add the fairly dramatic, amphitheater-like surrounding beach, and you've got a contest promoter's wet dream.
Coxos
To view live HD surf cams in Portugal near this spot, CLICK HERE. Coxos is the crown jewel of Portugal -- Europe's best right. It's ironic, actually, because it was one of the last "discoveries" in the Ericiera area. A small group of surfers managed to keep it secret for years until, in the mid-'80s, guys like Nick Uricchio managed to follow 'em down the farmer's track and were absolutely blown away with what they saw. It was only a matter of time till word got out, and though there are not really any contests at Coxos, it's very rare to strike it good and uncrowded. The wave -- which is like a reef/pointbreak -- breaks along a shallow rock shelf into a very small bay. Swells muscle their way in from deep water just offshore and form into these fast-moving symmetrical right walls that seem to concentrate all their power into the base of the wave rather than the lip, similar to many Hawaiian waves. There's no easy entry at Coxos: you've got to paddle like mad, get to your feet and start driving, otherwise you'll get sucked over and -- you guessed it -- end up on the reef. If you do it right, though, it's the best barrel in Europe. Put it this way: Aussie traveler Daf Williams -- who'd just returned from four months in Indo and two months at J-Bay -- got three tubes on one 8-foot wave at Coxos, smashed his 7'0" into three pieces on the rocks, came in and said, "That's the best tube I've ever got. I'm going home."
Supertubos
To view the Supertubes live HD surf cam, CLICK HERE. Surfers everywhere are pretty tuned into the smells of their local beach. In Southern California, dry offshores tinge the air with chaparral; in parts of Australia, the smell of eucalyptus wafts out to the lineup and in Hawaii, the plumeria kicks in with the trades. The smells are almost as much of the surfing experience as the waves themselves. The Supertubes experience is no different, though inarguably far stinkier. There's a fish factory at the north end of the beach that pumps out the pungent odor of drying and decomposing fish bits and coats the lineup with a briny smoke. But a little stench is a small price to pay for the roundness of the beachbreak barrels. Make no mistake: Supertubes is one of the best waves in Europe. There's one main peak with a super-fast (though makable) left, and a somewhat shorter right, and one other peak down the beach that's not quite as perfect but still way better than your average day at Huntington Pier.
Foz de Lizandro
To view live HD surf cams in Portugal near this spot, CLICK HERE. If you don't feel like battling the crowds or the urchins at one of Ericeira's reefbreaks, or the swell is pretty small, Foz can offer up fun, little peaks that are similar to any average California beachbreak -- some days good, some days bad, depending on the shifting sandbanks. There's a rivermouth at the south end that opens up in winter and can make a damn fine left in front of the rocks. Toward the middle of the beach, there are assorted peaks that pop up as the tide, which is pretty extreme in these parts, goes in and out. The scene on the beach is pretty classic, too, as this is the closest big stretch of sand to Ericiera. There's beach volleyball, kids jumping into the river, families sun tanning religiously and a bar right there, in case all that ogling and surfing renders you a little, well, parched. It's definitely not a bad place to while away a Sunday afternoon.
Portugal really does have everything: beachbreaks, slabs, pointbreaks, huge waves, good waves for beginners… There are waves for every type of surfer.
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Central Portugal According To...
Nic
Von
Rupp
Portuguese pro and Big Wave Tour competitor offers a tour of his homeland’s many riches.
What makes Portugal a special destination for surfers?
Portugal is a special place. You can go to Peniche, which can handle the N and S winds. Ericeira can handle the E winds. Carcavelos can handle the NW winds. There’s such a big variety of waves that thrive on different conditions, so you can always find something.
What kind of waves can surfers expect?
Portugal really does has everything: beachbreaks, slabs, pointbreaks, huge waves, good waves for beginners… There are waves for every type of surfer.
What’s the vibe?
These days there are definitely a lot of people coming to Portugal to surf, so it’s gotten a bit busy. And there is some localism at some spots. But it’s like anywhere — if you know how to behave around the lineup, people will respect you and be nice to you. Portuguese people are usually nice people, very friendly and welcoming.
What should surfers bring?
You definitely want to bring a wide range of surfboards — boards for the small days, but also round-pins with bigger fins that can handle the pointbreaks and bigger days. Then, if you want to surf Nazare, you need to bring guns. Sort of the same quiver you would take to Hawaii, actually.
When is the best time to score?
My favorite time is September, October and November. The wind is calmer, and we start getting swell. That’s when I think the waves are best.
What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?
Just hanging out and soaking in the culture. There are nature parks and beautiful beaches. Portugal has a lot of history, so there are a lot of sites worth visiting. I just like to chill with friends, go into the city and have a nice meal. This year it seems like we haven’t had much rest between swells, so we just enjoy the simple things and try to recover our energy.
What’s your favorite local cuisine?
Steak and fries! Portugal has great steak. The grilled octopus is amazing, too. And of course, the fish is awesome.
Where can people learn to surf?
There are a lot of surf schools and surf camps in Portugal. Ericeira has Lapoint, and there’s also Noah Surf House, which is really cool. If you’re looking for something a little more particular and private, though, go to where where I started surfing: Joao Macedo, a local big-wave surfer, has a nice, private school in Praia Grande called Surf Academia.
Any other local tips?
Portugal is an amazing place, and I advise people to come here. There’s a good balance between the city life of Lisbon and the waves in Ericeira, and everything is close by. It’s a great place to come with your family or partner. It’s really cool to just stay in Lisbon, and drive around for surf. Go into Sintra, surf the waves of Ericeira and visit Nazare — those are the spots you really want to check out.
Travel Essentials
Local scene
While the broader surf world has only recently turned its attention to Portugal – thanks mostly to the Championship Tour events in Peniche and, more recently, our collective winter gaze turning to the XXL madness at Nazaré – the country has been thoroughly surfed since the late 1950s. And Portuguese surfing has been growing ever since, now boasting thousands of local waveriders, dozens of surf shops, and numerous professional and amateur surf contests. Some might mistake Portuguese passion for arrogance; and while there are indeed some heavily localized areas where you will get vibed, most scenes are fairly mellow, as long as you show respect to all the locals, especially the spongers. There’s a thriving bodyboard culture in Portugal. They rip, they charge, and they run the lineups at many spots, so don’t front.
What to bring
If you’re going in the colder seasons when the Atlantic really turns on, be sure to pack the appropriate rubber for the water, and warm enough clothing for land. When it comes to boards, Portugal takes all types: longboards and/or soft-tops for points and beginner-friendly spots; high-performance shortboards for beachbreaks and slabs; rhino-chasers and tow boards for XXL surf, if that’s your thing… A bodyboard might help you fit in, too.
Also: Our amazing partners over at FCS have curated a collection of fine products for your next surf trip. Check it here.
How to get there
After flying into Humberto Delgado, the international airport in Lisbon, it’s about an hour drive to Peniche and about 30 minutes to Ericeira. Like a lot of European surf adventures, renting a car is the best way to explore the coastline and see what’s breaking around the peninsula. Be ready to pay some toll road fees, though.
Downtime
Amp out on little coffees and stroll around the ultra-quaint fishing town of Peniche. Or, if you’re in the mood to bash your knees up, take a run at a graffiti-decorated skatepark. For nature-lovers, head to the Berlengas Archipelago, a nature preserve of small islands off Peniche with epic snorkeling. Check out the Gothic-walled town of Obidos, or, if you get a kick out of flailing boards and bodies, watch the Northern Europeans learning to surf in the soft beachbreaks north of Baleal. There’s around 200 surf schools operating in Portugal today, so if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can pay someone to help you figure it out.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
LAX: 12 hrs
JFK: 7 hrs
Heathrow: 2.5 hrs
SYD: 40 hrs
Connectivity
Cell reception is pretty prevalent in most of Europe’s well-trodden locations. And so is WiFi at hotels, coffee shops, etc. But, if you wanna be fully connected all the time, you’ll probably want to talk with your provider before taking off, so that you can adjust your plan accordingly.
Currency
Euro. At the time of writing, $1 USD = 0.96 EUR
Avg. cost of...
Cup of coffee: $1.50
Lunch: $10.50
Beer: $2.50
Hotel room: $100.00
Visa Requirements
No payment necessary for a visit three months or less.
Drinking water quality
Tap water is considered safe to drink in Portugal.
Hazards
Board-snapping beachbreaks, excessively large Atlantic swells in the winter, passionate European locals, never wanting to leave (there’s a lot of expats, especially Californians).
Cash, card, crypto
Most major credit cards are widely accepted in Portugal. A little bit of cash, as always, is a good idea to have on you, too. ATMs are easy to find.
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