North Los Angeles
With dozens of corners and coves all along the PCH from Topanga to County Line that light up right points with enough swell — and some punchy beach break peaks around Zuma in between — even off the shores of the sprawling metropolis of Los Angeles, you can still find a hidden session with your friends, if you know where to look.
The Waves
County Line
Always bigger than it looks and colder than you think, this is the first consistently surfed spot south of Point Mugu (and is actually just north of the official Los Angeles County line). Once called "Pete's Reef" for the burger stand that once stood on the cliff, it's now generally regarded as a spot for the Valley kids. It can be a fun hot-dog wave, and the beach area gets nasty and hollow at high tide. Located directly across PCH from Neptune's Net (a favorite stop for the area's biker gangs), County Line is probably the most visible surfing area on this stretch of highway. But the indistinct lineup can be hard to figure, and that spreads the crowd around nicely. On the north end of the beach, there's a kelpy point/cobblestone right that consistently offers the best waves. It lines up best on west and southwest swells with a medium tide, though the beachbreak gets plenty of traffic during the summer souths. For the adventurous goofyfoot (or just goofy), there's also a hollow rock-riddled left at the far north end. County Line was actually a much better point before the bottom was rearranged during the El Nino storms of 1983, although it seems to be making a comeback.
Leo Carillo
An unmistakable right-hander just a half-mile south of the county line where PCH dips down near a scenic cove fringed with large rocks. You may recognize the area as the location of many of the '60s bikini beach movies. On most days, the wave, also known as Secos, peaks up near the big rock outside, then reforms into a spunky inside section. The problem here is the confined take-off area: it supports about six people, or two greedy longboarders (more often the case). To make matters worse, Leo Carrillo also doubles as a popular windsurfing obstacle course when the northwesterlies kick up in the afternoon. When everything (the wind and waves) is working, the lineup can be more stressful than the South Bay curve during rush hour. Leo Carrillo is best on a medium tide, with south or southwest swells up to double overhead. There are a series of rock reefs outside that will hold a big west or northwest and push the take-off zone north and outside of the rock, making it set up more like a point. On the biggest swells, there is another point farther north called Primo's. Water temps tend to be strangely cooler here, due to the odd fact that no one has ever peed in their wetsuit at Leo Carrillo.
Topanga
A visible long right point at the base of Topanga Canyon. Topanga can be a real workable wave with plenty of challenging sections, but it never matches the shape of its cousin, Malibu. Topanga will take any swell, but it's best on a big west. During the huge El Nino winter of 1982-'83, local Donnie Wilson picked off a ride from Topanga that connected all the way past Chart House -- a distance of more than 300 yards. Always crowded and on shore there's this mangy, hippie, drifter atmosphere. Don't accept any free brownies.
“It really is amazing to see a world-class wave like Malibu do its thing in the summer. But even more than a surf destination, LA is a full experience.”
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North Los Angeles According to...
Kassia
Meador
Longtime Malibu stalwart on the City of Angels
What makes L.A. a special destination for surfers?
From the beach to the mountains and the cityscape in between, it’s just such a dynamic, expansive experience. First Point Malibu is an ideal, premier, world-class wave that we have and it really is amazing to see world-class waves do their thing. But heading further and further north up the PCH, there are so many different rock features, and you really feel like you’re far away. It’s so stunning and beautiful. There’s nothing like surfing some off-the-beaten-path wave up there and then head into Neptune’s Net, which is a groovy, iconic biker bar, for some clam chowder. It’s always an experience around here.
What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?
Venice Beach and the Pier has a bunch of fun beachbreak peaks. Venice Breakwater gets good on the small south swells when the points aren’t really doing it, too. Of course there’s the points of Malibu, then beyond Zuma Beach, there’s a bunch of really, fun little pointbreak style waves like El Pescador, Matador, Nicholas Canyon, Leo Carrillo. There are so many fun, little, dynamic, cool spots.
How would you describe the vibe?
All in all, people in LA right now are just really grateful to be outside and grateful to be in nature with how tragic of a year we’ve had with the Palisades Fires. Some places are more hectic than others, like First Point Malibu, but once you go beyond the fray a little bit, up by Pescador and Matador, it’s super chill because they’re not surfed very much. You can go get a couple mellow waves around Venice, too.
What should surfers bring?
For wetsuits, anything in the 3/2 range. The closer it is to the Fall, bring a 3/2 for the early mornings or late afternoons, and then a long john and a jacket is a nice combo. When it comes to boards—longboards, mid-lengths, alternative crafts, just because a lot of the waves in this region specifically are longer, stretched-out pointbreaks, where it’s just nice to have a little more rail line to play with a little more volume. Of course, tons of people shortboard 3rd Point Malibu and Zuma.
When is the best time to score?
The best time to score is in the summer because these long-period, steep-angled southern-hemisphere swells are what really light up Malibu. Fall can be great though, too, because the wind can be a lot calmer compared to the Springtime when you can get some weird coastal eddies.
What else is there to do besides surf?
LA has got a zillion things to do, but if you have a chance, I’d say don’t miss out on one of Malibu’s best-kept secrets, and that’s the Adamson House. It’s an estate and you can learn about the history of Malibu, which is really interesting. It’s such a hidden gem and the reason that Malibu exists today in the way that it does and why there isn’t a railway through it. Driving down the PCH is great and there’s a lot to see.
What’s your favorite local food?
If you want an experience, going to Duke’s is awesome. It's right on the beach at Malibu and the actual Gidget still works there, so you can go hang with her and have a whole experience. I always jam over to Howdy’s. They have great burritos. John’s Garden is good for a juice, and then you have Sunlife for smoothies. If you’re in Northern Malibu, head over to Lily’s.
Where would someone go to learn how to surf?
You definitely can learn at First Point Malibu, but normally we would point people to Sunset, or Topanga or Santa Monica.
What should visitors know about the local culture?
People can drive insane on the PCH, so I would say that when you go cruise through the PCH, take it slow. Enjoy yourself. Don’t be in a hurry. Take in the sights. Take in the pace. Pick up after yourself, cruise, and enjoy yourself. Remember that you are normally where somebody lives, and when we’re in the ocean, mind all the animals that live there, too.
Travel Essentials
Culture and Customs
If California surfing has a spiritual birthplace, it’s Malibu. In the late 1940s and '50s, legends like Bob Simmons, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, and Miki Dora shaped both the wave and the culture, turning First Point into a proving ground for style. The '60s saw surfers like Lance Carson, Kathy Kohner (the real "Gidget"), and Dewey Weber carry the scene into the mainstream. In the '70s and '80s, LA icons like Allen Sarlo brought power to the point (as he STILL does), while through the '90s into the Now, Josh Farberow, Kassia Meador, the Marshall Brothers, Jimmy Gamboa, Dane Peterson, and Soleil Errico perpetuate Malibu’s timeless aura. Indeed, whether you’re perched on the nose or racing from Third to Second Point, you’re riding through layers of living history out there.
Local Scene
Sure, most of the spots are right outside of America’s most populous city on the West Coast, but…the lineups aren’t necessarily the chaos you’d imagine. Yes, Malibu gets packed, but it’s manageable (all 3 points) and most longboarders stick to First and Second Points, while shorter boards stay up at Third. Regardless, there’s an interesting mix (wherever you surf in N. LA) of locals that live along the coast or up the canyons, with LA transplants, actors, athletes, and college kids shooting up from USC, UCLA or Pepperdine. Normally, there’s a balance, and localism isn’t too overt (unless you’re talking Little Dume zone).
What to bring
Board-wise, bring whatever you'd ride at home in fun, waist to head-high surf. Nine-foot singlefin, 8’0” mid-length, 5'10" thruster, 5'6" fish, bodyboard, kneeboard — almost never a big wave gun. Rubber-wise, a 4/3mm (w boots if you want) will get you through winter and spring, summer and fall can warm up to almost trunkable (knee-paddling a longboard), with 3/2s or shortarms in between. On land, having a light jacket in the summer is always smart if/when the afternoon marine layer rolls in, or a puffer jacket for the early morning dawn patrols.
How to get there
Pretty darn easy: Land in LAX, rent a car (Kayak, Booking.com, Orbit etc.), find the Pacific Coast Hwy (PCH) and start heading North.
Downtime
You’re technically in (or very close to) LA, so there’s absolutely no shortage of stimuli. Dodger’s Game? Lakers or Clippers? Kings for some NHL? You could always cruise Abbot Kinney Blvd back in Venice or get weird on the Venice Boardwalk. Of course, if you want to stay out of the city (don’t blame ya!) there’s a ton of great hikes and walks around Malibu Canyon. You can also just kick it down around First Point like the locals do and wait for the tide while you listen to the old dawgs tell tales about Dora. Or just venture North toward County Line, go camping at one of the state parks along the way, and grab some chowder with the bikers at Neptune’s Net right along the PCH.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
JFK: 6 hours
Heathrow: 12 hours
Sydney: 14 hours
Connectivity
Everywhere. (Though there are some dead spots up in the hills and along the far north coast.)
Currency
USD.
Avg. cost of...
Coffee: $5.00
Lunch: $25.00
Beer: $8.00
Hotel room: $250
Visa Requirements
Yes. Depends where you're coming from. Check with your local consulate.
Drinking water quality
Fine.
Hazards
Traffic, parking tickets, errant surfboards, water quality post-rain
Cash, card, crypto
Credit cards are widely accepted, and access to ATMs is readily available.
Best first surf trips.
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